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Retrospective View – Kota Kinabalu in 1997

Looking back at the photos I have taken, I am feeling very nostalgic. I thought it would be best to document my travel to Sabah so that I could refer to them in the future.

My first trip into Kota Kinabalu was way back in 1997. To be exact, December 23rd 1997 and spent a week there. Those were the days before digital cameras were affordable and I carried an 35mm Compact Point and Shoot Camera with me. The photos are subsequently scanned so do forgive the quality of the photos.

This was before Kota Kinabalu was even considered a city, that happened at the turn of the century on February 2, 2000. During the trip, I’ve visited the Kota Kinabalu Town, the Sabah Museum, Kinabalu Park, Poring Hotsprings, Monsopiad Culture Village and  Manukan Island before heading back home.

It was certainly an eye-opening trip and one which captivated me to visit this lovely State year after year.

Kota Kinabalu Town

Much of Kota Kinabalu has not really changed very much over the years and I am sure you would recognize some of the landmarks.

Kota Kinabalu Town (Taken from the Observatory Tower)

The Green patch of land at the edge of the shoreline is the current site where Suria Sabah is on. It used to be a carpark and once in a while, that was the venue for the fun fair with the ferris wheel. In the distance is Pulau Gaya.

Another view of where Suria Sabah would stand on

Before the Jessleton Point Ferry Terminal was established, one of the ways of getting to the islands in Tunku Abdul Rahman Marine Park was to get up a speedboat right in front of Wisma Merdeka. It was certainly a scary experience for me to jump onto the speedboat as I thought I may miss it and fall into the sea.

The Fruits and Vegetable Market next to the Central Market

Sabah Museum

We were not allowed to take pictures inside the Sabah Museum building but the park in the museum grounds was exciting enough as it features several replica of the various tribes of Sabah.

Kinabalu National Park

The Kinabalu National Park was the first Malaysian Site which was designated as a World Heritage Site in 2000. To trekkers up Mount Kinabalu, this would be the first place for the ascent. It is about a 2 hour drive from Kota Kinabalu and resides within Crocker Range. The park is situated at an elevation of 1,563m (5,128 ft). The weather up at the park is general very cool and at times, you can literally walk in the clouds. The last time i did that was when I visited Genting Highlands in West Malaysia.

On the way up to the park, I spotted this lady walking with a basket of produce on her back.

Approaching Kundasang

The Majestic Mount Kinabalu
According to Kadazandusun folklore, the peak of Mount Kinabalu was where souls ascended to and it is regarded as a very sacred place.

I was not able to take any pictures from within the park as my camera lens fogged up.

Poring Hot Springs

The Poring Hot Springs, Ranau is located some 40km from Kinabalu National Park. The source of the spring water comes from the streams from Mount Kinabalu.

A Dip in the hot spring would ease any tired bones in the body and certainly apt after a long trip up the Kinabalu National Park. I’ve actually never travelled so long a distance in Singapore and it can get tiring sitting of two hours but it certainly was interesting.

Monsopiad Cultural Village

The Monsopiad Cultural Village was established by the descendants of the fearless Headhunting Warrior, Monsopiad on the very site of their village.

I was here ;)

The village in which Monsopiad lived in was terrorized by robbers and bandits who ransack the village. As the grandson of the chieftain of the village, he could not stand to see his village suffering and trained to become a formidable warrior. With his prowess and skills, he was able to ward off the bandits and beheaded 42 powerful warriors who terrorized his village.

He was able to bring peace to his village but his quest for blood burnt within him and he would pick up fights so as to satisfy his urge to kill. People began to fear him and as such they hatched a plan to stop Monsopiad rule by gathering several warriors who attacked him in the dead of night.

The 42 skulls of the warriors which Monsopiad beheaded still resides in the House of Skulls within the village.

The Sacred Monolith was commissioned by Monsopiad in his honor with the help of the Bobohizans (Priestesses). Monsopiad would bring the severed heads of his victims and placed it on the basket on the poles around the Monolith to dry. An elaborate ceremony would be conducted by the Bobohizans during this time. I was told that by cutting off the head, you would be freeing the soul from the evil of the body and the soul which was once your enemy would be your spiritual guardians.

Manukan Island

The shallow waters around Manukan Island makes it one of the most ideal place for a novice diver to explore the riches of the coral bed. It is teaming with fishes and certainly a sight to behold.

Kota Kinabalu from Manukan Island

Resort on Manukan Island

Relics from World War 2

Another picture of Kota Kinabalu taken from Manukan Island

Back to Singapore

My Chariot in the Sky awaits

View of Gaya Island from my plane

This was my first trip to Kota Kinabalu and if I recall correctly, my first trip on board a plane. It was a very memorable trip and it certainly was not the last time I visited Kota Kinabalu. This was the trip which lighted my passion for Sabah.

Hope you enjoy reading my adventure to the Land Beneath the Wind. This is only the beginning.

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Reflecting on my trip to Kota Kinabalu (2011)

This year, I was in Kota Kinabalu for about 14 days between November 23rd and December 8th. It was certainly an enjoyable trip and certainly a much needed break from the mundane routine of work back home in Singapore. This is my 14th year which I visited this beautiful State.

I had the time to reflect on my flight back to Singapore, all the lovely time I’ve spent. This year, I visited the ICT Fiesta, went hunting for Sabah Snake Grass, had lots of yummy food, visited the Logos Hope and walked around the beautiful waterfront and more. I would certainly be doing it again.

Kota Kinabalu has certainly changed a lot since the first time I visited the State. The spot where Warisan Square was the bus terminal and it was buzzing with activities all day long. The waterfront was just a pathway walk and the waterfront in front of Wisma Merdeka were lined with many ferry boards to take us to the islands. Suria Sabah was still part of the Sabah Port before it shifted part of the operations to Sepanggar . There are just a lot of changes during the last few years.

I am glad that parts of the city still retains its rustic charm, blending both the old and the new. This is certainly true along Gaya Street and the Segama area.

In a way, I am sad to see new shopping complexes sprouting out in the city, bringing the end to some of the old charm of Kota Kinabalu. Although these brought about new shops selling new products to the people of Sabah, many of them have empty shop lots. I guess they are expecting more entrepreneurs and big names to come to town.

In any case, this does not change the spirit of Sabah. The people are as friendly as ever and I feel safe walking on the streets alone. During my walks, I have had many smiling faces which helped brightened my day. They certainly make me feel very welcome. I can see that although Sabah has been left out for many years from the major development in the 80s and 90s, it is soon catching up.

Imported items may either not be available in Sabah or if they are available, they tend to be a tad more expensive than in Peninsular Malaysia. However, despite of that, Sabahans tend to be quite contended with what they have. The “Me First” attitude is just not there and they are just happy to help. Everything is done with a human touch.

I remember the cab driver who took me back home from Changi Airport told me that Singaporeans have the “Me First” attitude and all they care about is themselves. I do agree with him. Singapore is seen as efficient and a no-nonsense city, which is true because most things are handled very clinically with military precision. Over the years, the human effect is no longer there. Things are getting a lot more costly in Singapore and thus everyone is out for themselves which is evident in their work attitude, during shopping and even when out eating. Singaporeans tend to try to spend as little to get the most benefits. The “Kiasu (literally translated as Scared Lose) and Kiasi (Scared Die)” attitude is the hallmark of a typical Singaporean probably because of the upbringing.

Any case, I shall end this with a more upbeat note. Sabah is like my second home. I certainly enjoy my stay there and enjoy the people I meet. I am missing Sabah already and I would certainly be back next year to explore more of the State.

To all Sabahans who are reading this, “Don’t Change, Be as you are and stay true to yourself.”

Like I said in one of my tweets and I mean it is “People in KK City may not have access to everything that we have in Singapore but they’re a happier and friendlier people. I miss Sabah”.

If the world adopts the lifestyle and mindset of the Sabahans, it would indeed be a better world.

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Morning Walk in Kampong Air (Sabah KK)

During the first few years I visited Kota Kinabalu, I stayed near the Kampong Air vicinity and do spend a lot of time walking around the place. I missed catching my movies at Golden Screen Cinema and having my Peppermint’s beef noodles for lunch and subsequently getting my satay after the show.

I did my walkabout on the second last morning of my stay in Kota Kinabalu and here are some pictures I’ve taken.

Old Golden Screen Cinema Building

Cathay Cinema Building

Isn’t she cute ?

Jobs in Singapore ?

This is my last photo journey on Kota Kinabalu as I make my way back 2 days later and back to reality.

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Quest for the Sabah Snake Grass

I must say that I am not a believer in non-scientifically proven medication or herbs in this case as some of those “Cure All” Chinese Herbal Remedies seems to do more harm than good. I think the Chinese Culture tends to exaggerate on unproven claims.

However, my mum who has a friend who is currently in chemotherapy treatment for cancer and was told by someone else that Sabah has a cure for cancer in the form of the Sabah Snake Grass (Clinacanthus Nutans) or Duan Belalai Gajah. Apparently, there was a guy in Malaysia who suffered from cancer and he took the leaves of this plant and was cured of cancer. That appeared in a Malaysian Chinese Daily and that plant become a sort after item. The miracle cure for cancer. Well, I am sure that if this actually works, the scientific community would be studying it further as a possible cure for cancer and they would be pushing it as a drug as an alternative to chemotherapy.

They do sell the leaves in Singapore but the prices goes up faster than the prices of petrol. I supposed there are people who are selling this to make a quick buck and exploiting those desperate for a cure for their ailment. Of course, if this is the magical cure, I would believe that people would pay anything for it for a second chance at life.

I read somewhere on the web that there are many who took this and did not experience any improvement to their ailment and the respond to that by one of the seller online is that the Sabah Snake Grass would cure certainly types of cancer and if you do not experience any improvement, you would be plagued with some other types of cancer which the grass is not effective.

Walking down Gaya Street, I saw a number of stores selling the plant or the leaves. Some pricing the bunch of leaves from RM5 for a few stems to about 20 stems. Some sell the leaves too at about RM5 for about 30 leaves. Of course the price varies from vendor to vendor. In Singapore, there was a lady wanting to sell several stocks of the plant for S$35. The prices went up from S$10 to S$35 in a span of several months.

There seems to be two variety of the Sabah Snake Grass, one with the thin but longer leaves and one which is much wider and shorter. Since it has not been scientifically proven, I am not sure which variety is the real one. Guess perhaps both ?

The First Bundle of the Sabah Snake Grass I bought for RM5

On the subsequent trip to Gaya Street, I saw another vendor selling each bundle for RM3. They say that they are selling cheap because they do not want to exploit the market and since they happened to have it in their backyard and want to help people in need. So I bought all the 5 sets for them.

In Singapore, you can get dried sabah snake grass from the lady which sells herbs at the Smith Street Market somewhere in the middle of the market. You cannot miss it as she is the only there selling. She does sell fresh ones but you need to make reservation.

If you get the fresh sabah snake grass, get the ones with the stem as you could easily plant them by sticking them in the soil. This way, you will get continuous supply at your own home. You need to water them regularly and provide them with sufficient sunlight at least a few times a week.

As for preparation, you could have the leaves raw and blend it with water and drink with lime juice to make it palatable. Alternatively, you can treat it like tea leaves and boil the leaves, the water will turn yellow which is normal. You could even mixed the cooked and soften leaves and eat them with soup.

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Saturday Afternoon Tea at Promenade Hotel, KK Sabah

On my first Saturday in Kota Kinabalu, I was invited to have Hi-Tea at Promenade Hotel. It was certainly a lovely brunch which was very filling. I certainly enjoyed myself there and I remember eating so much that I was unable to eat dinner. A great all-in-one meal.

I love buttered prawns

The Crab is battered deep fried and I actually eat it with the shell

Satay .. Now You see it ..

Now you don’t :) Yummy

Thank You Satay Man !

The Charsiew Chicken is very nice

Love the Japanese Baby Octupus

Yummy Baked Cheesy Mussels

I love Sushi but sadly there was not a wide variety of Sushi available that day

More Baby Octupus and Chili Squid

Crab Eggdrop Soup. Yummy even without the Sharkfin

Who came resist a shrimp cocktail

The Chuwanmushi seems to be a little too oversteamed

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Stroll Down Gaya Street (KK Sabah) on a Monday Morning

Gaya Street is a very busy street and on Sunday morning, it transforms itself into the Sunday Tamu. But today is Monday and life in Gaya Street is a lot different.

Tong Hing Supermarket

Sabah Tourism Board.
It currently occupies the former General Post Office which is one of the oldest standing prewar building

Signal Hill Observatory Tower

Jesselton Hotel
This is the first post-war building in Kota Kinabalu in Gaya Street (formerly known as Bond Street)

United Overseas Bank and Maybank Sdn Bhd

Fountain at the Roundaround in Gaya Street

Pigeons taking a morning dip in the fountain

Australia Place
This was where the Australian troops camped when they first landed on Jesselton during the 2nd World War

 

Atkinson Clock Tower

Start of Gaya Street

Road leading to the Istana

Kota Kinabalu City Hall
Dewan Bandaraya Kota Kinabalu (DBKK)

War Memorial for the Fallen Australian Soldiers during the 2nd World War and the Malaysian Armed Forces who defended Sabah during the 1963-1996 Confrontation

The Court Complex

Across over to Segama

Back to Warisan Square

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Morning Stroll Along KK City Waterfront Sabah

On my last monday (December 5th 2011) spent on Kota Kinabalu, I decided to take an early morning stroll down the waterfront along Kota Kinabalu City. This took me from the KK Waterfront right next to Warisan Square and all the way down to Suria Sabah. Along the way, I went through the KK Waterfront, Central Market to Wisma Merdeka. It was indeed a nice and relaxing walk which was made a lot better with the numerous smiles and greetings I’ve got along the way. If you ask me, I must say that Sabahan are a really friendly lot. We may not speak the same language at times but with finger gestures and broken Bahasa Melayu and English, they were able to point me through my journey.

Centrepoint Sabah
Warisan Square
 
 

Christmas Tree outside Warisan Square
Hito Bistro and B.E.D (Best Entertainment Destination) 
 

Warisan Square 
 

Entrance to The Waterfront 
 

Pubs and Cafes along The Waterfront
 
See How Clear the Water Is 

 
Sabah Fish Marketing Authority (SAFMA) in the distance
  
Le Meridien Kota Kinabalu Hotel
 
Fruit Market 

 
Open Air Market 

Salted Fish Market

 

 
Stores at the Central Market 

Dolphin at the Waterfront
 

 
Pulau Gaya 

Close up of Palau Gaya

Cute Fish

 

 
 Merlin at the Roundabout near Hyatt Hotel Kota Kinabalu 

 
Wisma Merdeka and Hyatt Hotel 

 
One of the Ferry Point to the islands 


Jesselton Point Ferry Terminal

Suria Sabah

 

 

 

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A Lovely Visit to Donggongon Market (Sabah KK)

The Donggongon in the Penampang District, Kota Kinabalu, Sabah is an important town where the ethnic Kadazan-Dusun community makes up the majority. In the Kadazan language, Donggongon means “Shelter” or “Rest Area” and it is the major stopover place for the indigenous people of Sabah who journey down the hillsides to trade.

Thus needless to say, the Donggongon Market which opens on Thursday and Friday is a must-see destination for any visitors to Kota Kinabalu. This market sells mainly fresh and dried seafood,meats and vegetables and you can certainly get them at greatly discounted prices and an opportunity to mingle with the native Kadazan Community. Come early before the items on sale are sold out.

One of the many entrances to Donggongon Market

Vegetables, Melon, Durian, Corn, Pineapple and Lemongrass

Coconut

Mushrooms

Pineapple, Ginger, Lemongrass, Sweet Potatoes, Soursop and Palm fruit

Huge heap of Ginger

Local Vegetable – Sayur Pakis

Baby Radish

Dried Shrimps and Dried Anchovies and White Baits

Areca Nuts (aka Betel Nuts) or locally known as Pinang

Bambangan Fruit – A Mango Species which is big and very sour.

Oysters in the Bag

Lukan Shellfish

Traditional Herbs

Dried Salted Fish

Conch Meat and some other shellfish

Mud Crabs

Conch

Calms

Roast Pork and Charsiew

Fried Snacks

Tobacco

Big Meat Pau

Kailan with Flowers

Kadazan Delicacies

Needless to say, my trip to the Dongonggon Market was memorable. Bought a couple of interesting items to cook. I did buy several kilograms of Dried Shrimps and Salted Fish back home as it is really expensive here in Singapore. They are also a lot fresher in Sabah.

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A Walk through Gaya Street Tamu (Sunday Market) (Sabah KK)

In the early 20th century, villagers from all around Jesselton (now Kota Kinabalu) would travel to Bond Street (now Gaya Street) once a week to buy and sell their produces. Bond Street was the heart of town and nothing much has changed as Gaya Street is still where the heart of the city is. Government Administrative Offices, Banks, Hotels and other businesses still line Gaya Street. Every Sunday, the entire Gaya Street would be closed to traffic between 6am to about 1pm and the street is transform into a shopper’s paradise. You can find all kind of local snacks, herbs, plants, food and souvenirs in Gaya Street Tamu. This place never fail to excite me as I can find new things each time I visit it.

Some Light Food-on-a-Stick to start the day

Local Snacks

Banana, Papaya and Pamelo Fruits

Not sure what the fruit on the left is called. Ginger and Lime on Sale too

Delicious Giant Lukan Calms on Sale. Yum! Yum!

Fermented Snacks

Local Herbs

Fresh Fish for Sale

Rambutan, Durian, Tarap on Sale. Tarap is a native Borneon fruit which is the cousin of the Jackfruit plant.

Pigeons and other Birds on Sale

Cute Puppies

Golden Crab

Bak Zhang (Rice Dumplings)

Blind Musicians making beautiful music

Blind Masseurs giving leg and back rubs

Yummy! Durian Cakes on Sale

Colorful Ornamental Butterflies

Local Handicrafts

Local Pearls Jewelry

Ribena Flower or Roselle flower is rich in Vitamin C and makes a great drink when the petals are boiled in water.

Traditional Gongs

Gold Fish for sale

Cannot get enough of fruits, buy and plant them at home :)

If you happened to be in Kota Kinabalu and on a Sunday, do drop by Gaya Street. It is a must-do activity which would thrill both the young and old.

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On Board the Logos Hope in Kota Kinabalu

I was glad that the Logos Hope was berthed in Sabah Port in Kota Kinabalu when I visited the lovely State. It was my first visit onboard this new vessel although I’ve visited the prior ship, the Doulos, back before it was decommissioned in 2009.

The ships were operated by a German non-profit Christian Charitable Organization, GBA Ships e.V and its goal is to bring knowledge, help and hope to the people of the world. The crew on board are made up of volunteers who stay on the ship for between 2 months to 2 years who comes from all nationalities and all walks of life. Their goal is to serve.

Although known as the largest floating book store, the Logos (which means Word in Greek) core mission was to bring help and hope to the poor and needy, spreading the Word of God and generally being the light to the world.

In Kota Kinabalu, the crew was seen spreading the awareness of HIV/AIDS. The crew members worked with the Skyline Church to distribute Christmas Gifts to the needy children living in the interior of Sabah. Other crew members were instrumental in building shelves for the Sabah Society of the Blind. They also helped in the preparation work for the opening of a new children’s home in Kota Kinabalu, Caring for the Future of Malaysia.

The Logos Hope berthed in Sabah Port


Our Journey begins at Sabah Port where they provided a shuttle bus service between the port and the ship for a nominal fee of RM1.

Going up the Logos Hope

The books on sale are priced in Logos International Units and they provided conversion charts around the bookstores so you know how much the units are in the local currency. In this case, it is Malaysian Ringgits (RM)

They even have Chinese Books

I so want to get this book.

The Crowd is coming in

They even has a selection of Music CDs for sale

People queuing up to pay at the friendly cashiers

More Bargain Books and CDs for Sale

Palau Gaya from the Porthole Window of the Logos Hope

Palau Gaya from the Logos Hope

Storyboard of the Parable of the Prodigal Son. Logos Hope is about bringing hope to the hopeless and this certainly is apt for the ship.

The Mascot on board Logos Hope entertaining the children

There is even a cafeteria on board the Logos Hope selling drinks, cookies, ice cream and other goodies.

View from coming down the Logos Hope

The Logos Hope from a distance

I certainly enjoy my time on board the Logos Hope but as I experienced some sea sickness when on the ship, I did not stay as long as I wanted. There was a culture show on the top deck of the ship which I’ve missed. Perhaps during my next visit on board the ship in Singapore. I saw several books which I wanted to buy but will wait when I visit it in Singapore, I did not want to overshoot my luggage entitlement on board my plane.

The ship is now fully air-conditioned and is definitely more comfortable to be on. See you in Singapore :)

Incidentally, the Logos Hope will be in Singapore from December 17th to 29th 2011.

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